Albuquerque Journal (Albuquerque, NM)

Wall Street West Short on Menu Promises.

Byline: Karen Peterson Of the Journal

* Restaurant's food is good, but some of it is indistinguishable and may be missing components the menu proposes it has

Wall Street West opened to a chorus of enthusiasm from area food critics. Intrigued, we gave the place a few months to mature and then dropped in to see what the fuss was all about.

After two visits, we still haven't figured that out. Wall Street West's menu promises the kind of sophisticated and imaginative food you can almost take for granted in Santa Fe. What the restaurant delivers, however, falls somewhat short of that. It's excellently prepared and well-presented. But many of the dishes just don't live up to the description on the menu.

We started dinner, on a snowy evening about a month ago, with an appetizer of warm goat cheese and tomato fondue ($9). A round of goat cheese topped a skinned, just-heated tomato melting into its own juice, accompanied by sauteed spinach and a little olive oil. A scattering of very thin and very crisply fried onion rings rounded out the dish.

The cheese, of course, was tart, creamy and delightful. The brief heating brought out the tomato's sweet tones the perfect complement to the cheese. …

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